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| Chef Z writes a regular cooking column for www.Cranford.com in their quarterly newsletter...
FALL 2011 Cranford.com
THE PERFECT APPETIZER FOR FALL OR OTHER TIMES OF YEAR by Chef Suzan Gray
I became a vegan about 3
years ago, until quite recently, when I fell off that diet and directly onto a
heap of sushi, when puff… there went my vegan diet!
I am getting back to that diet. Steadily, and currently at a rate of about
70% of my total consumption, which is better than nothing I suppose. Truth is,
I am a vegan at home and a “whateveravore” when I go out or over someone’s home
for dinner. For me, it’s a health issue, not a religion, so I don’t take it too
too seriously, but instead, I use it as a guide, and for the most part I eat
just a modicum of dairy and meat nowadays. Cookbook author Mark Bittman has
coined his new way of life as “vegan before 6:00.” I can relate.
This subject matter has little to do, I
know, with this time of year, but for the sake of a story, I wanted to offer a
little background. So. Now that you know a little of my personal history,
suffice it to say that I surely relish any opportunity to indulge in a vegan
meal, whether I’ve made it myself or someone else has. In this case, I’m going
to share with you my new favorite appetizer, which just happens to be a vegan appetizer…surprise!
I first had it when my
friend invited me over for dinner. Being the veganophile I am (I made up that
word, ain’t it kinda catchy?), I knew our dinner was going to be different and
exciting, and I was right. Needless to say, I was immediately hooked on these
tasty morsels! I may have eaten 10 of them as I watched my self-pride fly right
out the window of her kitchen.
Simply put, it’s baked
crostini topped with caramelized onions, sautéed mushrooms, sautéed artichoke hearts with garlic,
and…pesto! It’s not the quickest appetizer in the world to make, but it may
just be the most flavorful appetizer you’ve ever eaten, at least it is to me!
And having just served this appetizer to my Italian cousin and his wife I will
tell you that although we had a large tray filled with them, they quickly
vanished between the three of us as my cousin remarked, “not bad.” OK?!
I have named it the
FOOTLOOSE APPETIZER, after my friend’s business name, and I hope you will love
them as much as I do!
FOOTLOOSE APPETIZER
Makes enough for about 4
hungry guests, but they’re so delish that I suggest making more!
Chef’s Note: these tasty
morsels don’t hold well, so plan to compose them and eat them shortly
thereafter. They are best served at room temperature, naturally warm from the
components having just been cooked. Divinity on a little oval slice of toast…….
INGREDIENTS:
1 short baguette, sliced
into 1/4” thick diagonal slices*, about 16 slices (at least!)
approx. 1 Tbsp. Olive oil or
grapeseed oil to drizzle over baguette slices
1 tsp. oil for sautéing
mushrooms (I suggest coconut oil or grapeseed oil)**
2 cups mushrooms, sliced
paper thin
1-1/2 cups canned or jarred
artichoke hearts, drained and sliced in thin strips
1 clove garlic, peeled and
finely minced
1 large yellow onion, peeled
and sliced into thin strips
4 Tbsp. Pesto (homemade or
store bought)
PROCEDURE:
1. Preheat oven to 375F.
2. Cut baguette into
diagonal slices, place on a flat baking sheet and drizzle SPARINGLY with olive
oil. Place in oven and bake 8 minutes till crisp. Reserve.
3. Heat a frying pan and add
oil and then mushrooms and sauté over high heat till brown, stirring constantly
for about 8 minutes. Add a pinch of salt and stir. Reserve when done.
4. Add another tsp. of oil
to same pan and add sliced artichoke heart slices and garlic. Stir constantly
for about 3 minutes. Reserve when done.
5. Add yet another 2 tsp.
oil to same pan and add onion slices and stir. Add a pinch of salt and cook,
stirring, over medium-high heat until very dark brown, about 10 minutes. Then add
about 1/4 cup water and stir, continuing to cook until liquid evaporates.
Reduce heat to medium low and cook another 5 minutes, stirring.
6. If making pesto from
scratch: place 1/4 cup pine nuts, 1 cup packed basil leaves, 2 cloves garlic,
and1/4 cup shredded parmesan in a blender. Pulse and add 2 Tbsp. Olive oil and
pulse again a few times until blended.
7. Compose. Serve. Enjoy!
To compose appetizers:
Have a serving plate ready.
Place crostini in a pleasing
pattern and use a fork to top each one with a small equal amount of caramelized
onions.
Top each crostini with the
sautéed mushrooms.
Finish with the artichoke
hearts and top each appetizer with a scant dollop of pesto (about 1/2 tsp. on
each).
* a little note, about
slicing baguettes: slice them using a sawing action made with a serrated knife,
held at a slight angle so as to make them a bit longer than the result of
slicing straight. Also, baguettes are not a particularly dense bread, so it’s
easier to slice them if they are slightly frozen. Freeze the baguette and then
allow to sit at room temperature for about 5 minutes only, before slicing. You
will get a finer slice this way.
** another little note,
about cooking oils: it’s said that olive oil becomes toxic when heated, so I
use coconut oil or grapeseed oil for sautéing or pan cooking. These two oils do
not become toxic when heat is added. I use olive oil mostly as a “finishing”
oil for adding to foods after they are cooked. Caveat, yes, I have suggested
using olive oil for the crostini, I know, as I’m going for flavor here. July 2009 www.Cranford.com "A Day in the Life of a Chef at a real western Guest Ranch" By Chef Suzan “Z” Gray Chef Z (nicknamed "Chef Many Spoons" by one of the ranch guests) cooking lunch out of cast iron Dutch ovens atop Shadow Mountain outside Jackson, Wyoming...an every Friday ritual for her. Thankfully, Chef Z knows how to build an awesome fire for her guests!
  If you've ever wondered what it would be like to work at a real dude ranch, then line up right behind me, because it's just that level of curiosity that landed me the position of chef at a REAL western guest ranch in Wyoming!
As the only female of a 5-man chef team at a 5-star ranch, I can tell you with no uncertainty that it's exciting, hard work; always preparing our cuisine to suit a myriad of guest's tastes and desires.
And oh yes, we simultaneously feed the ranch staff, a whole other dynamic and demographic who desire a whole other type of food. So back and forth we go throughout the day, feeding our high end clientele and our "other end" staff....a daunting task to say the least. As for myself, I am the A.M. CHEF, which simply put means that I arise at the crack of dawn, and even though it's summer, I still need to don two winter weight coats to hike up the hill to the Lodge kitchen and get a cookin' about 5:30am each day. A typical breakfast for the guests consists of Hot Cracked Bulgar Cereal with Cinnamon and Raisins and Spiked Nuts on the side, an array of cold cereals, a Lox and Cream Cheese Platter, Scrambled Eggs with "STUFF" in them, Bacon, Sausage, Potatoes of some variety, a hot entree such as Apple Crisp or Italian Doughnut Holes, Waffles to order, Pancakes to order, Omelettes to order, freshly baked pastries, muffins and breads baked that morning by our Pastry Chef, a fresh fruit bowl, and beverages aplenty. It's a LOT of cooking,and all before 8:am, but someone's got to do it and I guess that someone is ME!
The good news is that I am residing right at the base of the Grand Tetons and it's so beautiful here that words fail to accurately describe it. And if I wish to go horseback riding in the afternoon or on my day off, then off I go.
Here's one of my favorite breakfast items that I serve at the ranch. They are easy to make and taste like very rich doughnut holes. Indeed, they have a secret ingredient in them which you will never taste. This ingredient gives the pastries a very hearty flavor and mouthfeel and goes so undetected in flavor that even my Executive Chef here at the ranch could not guess what the secret ingredient was, until I told him of course. He just grunted, though he had already told me he loved them, so I guess that's his way of approving. He's a man of few words.
ITALIAN DOUGHNUT HOLES with POWDERED SUGAR Makes about 40 holes for 8 - 10 somewhat hungry folks, or 5 - 6 serious minded “DOUGHNUT HOLERS.”
Chef’s note: plump with protein, not empty calories, these are the creamiest centered and crispiest doughnuts imaginable, fried ever so quickly in coconut oil. Crowned with a nice healthy dusting of powdered sugar, these delectable nuggets keep well and reheat beautifully….and are indescribably delicious! Coconut oil is non-toxic when heated to high temperatures, so it is the oil I suggest using. You can substitute grapeseed oil, another oil that is non-toxic when heated. Never use canola oil in your diet or for cooking!
Chef’s variations: you can add 1 tsp. of finely minced lemon or orange zest or crystallized ginger or ½ tsp. cinnamon to the dry ingredients for an extra kick. Adding these to the dry ingredients will allow for easier incorporation when the wet ingredients are added. For Mexican Chocolate Doughnut Holes, add 1 Tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder and ½ tsp. cinnamon to the dry ingredients before continuing.
INGREDIENTS: 1 cup WHOLE MILK RICOTTA or PART SKIM RICOTTA CHEESE( do NOT use skim milk ricotta and do not use cottage cheese) 3 LARGE EGGS ¼ cup plus 1 tsp. SUGAR 1 cup ALL-PURPOSE WHITE FLOUR 4 tsp. BAKING POWDER, sifted ¼ tsp. SEA SALT COCONUT OIL, unrefined for frying at high temperatures POWDERED SUGAR for dusting or HONEY for drizzling
PROCEDURE: Prepare a drying rack or flat pan with paper towel for draining the fried holes;
In a large bowl add ricotta and eggs and beat until smooth, add all the sugar and blend to a smooth batter;
In a separate bowl, stir together flour, sifted baking powder (to avoid nasty tasting lumps), and salt, using a fork to incorporate all the ingredients;
Add dry mixture to the ricotta mixture and use a rubber spatula to incorporate completely, making sure to get all the flour off the bottom of the bowl and incorporated into the batter;
In a heavy quart sized pot, add enough coconut oil to a melted depth of 1½” and slowly bring to just about smoking hot or 360F on a candy thermometer. Watch the oil closely and adjust heat as needed so it doesn’t get too hot. The batter should sizzle as soon as it hits the oil when the correct temperature is achieved;
Use two teaspoons to carefully scoop and drop 6 small teaspoon sized lumps into the hot oil, using a slotted spoon to turn them over after about 20 seconds, or when nicely browned. Cook for an additional 20 seconds until the second side is brown too. Transfer the holes, using the slotted spoon, onto the paper towel and repeat until all the batter is used up;
Dust your little gems with powdered sugar and serve immediately. If not consuming right away, cool completely without dusting with powdered sugar and refrigerate in an airtight container. To reheat and repuff the deflated refrigerated holes, place on a flat baking sheet and bake in a preheated 350F oven for 10 minutes. Remove from oven and dust with sugar. They will have puffed back up to the original shape. You can substitute with honey for the powdered sugar if desired.
Chef's tip: make extra!!!! They have a way of disappearing! Enjoy!
MAY 2011 STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE by Chef Suzan Gray
Here I go again. It’s just the same ole thing every time I sit down to write an article for www.Cranford.com,
but this time, I’m going to give you some information that has
absolutely no tie to cooking, it’s just trivia at it’s finest!
Here’s the true story: I recently spent some time in
California as a culinary instructor. One student in particular, and I,
struck up a friendship and as we were talking one evening after class,
we decided we should make a plan to have lunch together. Fine with me,
she was my peer and very nice and we got along just swell. So, I asked
her for her phone number to input into my cell phone for safekeeping. I
got to the part where I needed to ask for her last name, and she said
it was CRANFORD! I hesitated a moment, thinking I’d heard her
incorrectly, and asked her how to spell it: C-R-A-N-F-O-R-D….. yup,
just as I thought. So I asked her, “have you EVER MET ANYONE named
Cranford?” Her reply, “only family.”
From the look on my face, she could tell something
unusual was up. So I asked her, “do you know where I grew up?” Again,
her reply, “Cranford, New Jersey!” “How do you know that?” I asked in a
stupified voice? She then proceeded to tell me that her husband had
researched the family name extensively, and apparently, the only town
in the US named as such is our very own Cranford, NJ! Wow, we were both
taken aback and so of course I was invited to meet her husband when he
picked her up after class that evening. What a coincidence! Totally
trivial, but interesting, at least according to me. You know what “they
say” about 6 degrees of separation? More like 2 degrees I’d say.
So now, for the strawberry story: I remember the
Strawberry Festival held at my church every year around Easter time, or
perhaps it was in the middle of summer. Either way, it was memorable
and I can still smell and see the vats of defrosted strawberries
swimming in that strawberry colored liquid, which was poured over
mountains of those little spongy cakelettes, then topped with Napolitan
ice cream squares comprised of 3 equal laminated parts of
chocolate/vanilla/strawberry flavors. I loved it but I have since honed
my own version of the same, minus the ice cream, and with the addition
of Cinnamon Chantilly Whipped Cream and homemade shortcakes. I think
it’s so much better, and really worth the extra time to make.
STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE
Serves 6 – 8
Oven temperature: 450F
Baking time: 12 – 15 minutes depending on the size
Chef’s note: the recipe for the shortcakes is just a
sweetened version of my Dad’s biscuit recipe. So if you have a
hankering for Sunday biscuits, just cut the sugar down to 2 Tbsp. and
the remaining ingredients stay the same. And for that matter, if you
have a yen for some scones, just keep the sugar the same and add a
handful of dried golden raisins or cranberries, or a combination of
both and you’ll have awesome scones. And you can always brush the tops
of those little pastries with a little milk or cream and a sprinkling
of sugar!
Recipe shorthand:
- Prepare berries and add sugar and allow to rest (macerate).
- Chill cream, bowl and whisk while making shortcakes.
- Preheat oven and mix shortcake batter. Bake off shortcakes.
- Whip Chantilly Cream. Allow shortcakes to bake and cool. Then slice and compose dessert.
Berries:
1 quart fresh strawberries - rinsed, hulled, and sliced vertically
3 Tbsp. sugar – sprinkled over sliced berries to sweeten
Wash strawberries under cold running water, then remove hulls and slice
into 4 equal vertical slices each. Add to bowl and sprinkle with sugar
and allow to macerate for at least 1 hour at room temperature for
natural juices to be emitted.
Shortcake:
2 cups all purpose flour
1/2 tsp. salt
4 Tbsp. sugar
4 tsp. Baking powder
1/2 cup (8 Tbsp.) unsalted butter – frozen, grated
2/3 cup whole milk
Preheat oven to 450F. In a large bowl, add dry
ingredients and whisk to eliminate lumps. Grate frozen butter over the
dry mixture and use a pastry cutter or two forks to mix into the dry
until the texture of cornmeal is acquired (or pulse dry mixture and
butter gratings in a food processor until the texture of cornmeal).
Drizzle milk over the mixture and continue to mix together until a ball
is formed. Knead the mixture 5 times right in the bowl (or dump
contents of food processor into a large bowl and knead 5 times).
Pull equal sized pieces and drop onto a parchment lined baking sheet
with 2” between each one, and place into the preheated oven. Bake until
golden brown on top. When done baking, remove sheet from oven and allow
shortcakes to cool 10 minutes before slicing. Use a serrated knife to
carefully slice in half horizontally and top with sweetened
strawberries and a dollop of Chantilly Cream.
Cinnamon Chantilly Cream:
1 cup heavy whipping cream – cold
dash vanilla extract
1/4 cup powdered sugar – sifted
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
Chill heavy cream, balloon whisk and a large bowl in
refrigerator for 1/2 hour before whipping. Use a simple but quick and
vigorous back and forth motion to whip the cream, vanilla, and the
sugar until soft peaks form. Add cinnamon and whip a few more seconds
till stiff peaks are formed. Do not overbeat. Should take about 1
minute to hand whip the cream if you do it vigorously enough. Reserve
in the refrigerator until the shortcakes are baked and the dessert is
ready for composing.
April 2009 www.Cranford.com Artful Garnish! By Chef Suzan “Z” Gray
How to Garnish Like a Pro
Hooked on the artful use of garnish since I was a young girl, I learned how those “gems” add sudden sophistication to even a simple childish creation. Garnishes add color, aroma, pizazz, and texture to each dish they adorn, as well as important information for those with food sensitivities. Simply put, they are the jewelry that completes the dish and the picture that’s worth a thousand words. Simple garnishes can be created with just a few fresh ingredients and a modicum of thought and preparation. One of my favorite garnishes is a mini-bouquet of like-colored herbs with textural differences: two sprigs of curly parsley nestled upon a larger Italian (flat) parsley sprig is a simple yet elegant garnish for a savory dish. Add a single edible flower to create a bold and colorful display to a simple dessert, or, create a bouquet of the herbs used in the dish. To anchor the garnish to the food or the plate, spear the stem end through a small hole (created with a toothpick) in the center of a lemon or lime slice.
Professional chefs understand the responsibility they accept when preparing food for the public, especially those with sensitivities, and this is when garnishes become more than just decoration. The garnish gives important information about certain ingredients contained in the dish, taking some of the mystery out of foods that have an unidentifiable mix of ingredients, such as dips, spreads, breakfast breads, soups, stuffing or bakery items. For example, adorning a seafood dip with a whole shrimp, one parsley sprig, and a slice of lemon will alert a person with an aversion to seafood that they may wish to reconsider. For the buffet table, rest several stems of wheat, a few dates or dried apricots, and whole nuts alongside slices of breakfast bread containing these ingredients, again, alerting those eaters sensitive to nuts or dried fruit to stay clear. The beauty of a dish enhances our appetite and enjoyment. Artful garnish helps transform a simple meal into a visual feast. Try these tips to garnish like a pro: - Make sure it’s edible! Garnishes should be safe to eat and of an organic origin (nothing synthetic should touch food, and florist’s flowers are not edible)
- Use only fresh items that are clean and attractive.
- Keep it simple. A sprig of herbs or a colorful slice of fruit can do wonders.
- Try garnishing the rim of the plate or platter. Rub a stick of cold butter around the edge to act as glue, and then sprinkle a combination of finely minced herbs or edible flowers over the rim.
- Stick to an odd number of ingredients (1, 3, or 5) to create the garnish.
- Use restraint, particularly with strong-flavored items such as edible flowers. Garnishes should enhance, not detract from, the food.
- Consider food temperature. Avoid items that will melt or wilt when placed on hot food. An exception is the use of herb-flavored butters, which intentionally melt away to leave a flavorful legacy of herbs.
- Keep color, texture, and shape congruent with the food being adorned. Use savory herbs on savory dishes, and sweet herbs such as mint on sweet dishes.
- Always use whole components of suspect ingredients as garnish, especially when preparing dishes containing seafood or nuts.
CITRUS SEAFOOD CEVICHE Serve this “citrus cooked” soup in a martini glass topped with a dollop of sour cream and a whole cooked shrimp, finished off with a fresh slice of lime as a sidecar garnish CEVICHE for 4: Combine in a non-reactive glass bowl, mix well and allow to “cook” in the citrus juices in the refrigerator for about 1 hour (add cilantro just before serving). 1 SCALLION, thinly sliced 1 fresh ORANGE, remove colored zest and bitter white pith, cut the flesh into small dice 2 fresh LIMES, remove colored zest and bitter white pith, cut the flesh into small dice ½ ENGLISH SEEDLESS CUCUMBER, peeled and minced pinch dried HOTT PEPPER FLAKES or ½ tsp. minced JALAPENO PEPPER 1 perfectly ripe Haas AVOCADO, peeled, pitted and diced pinch SEA SALT dash freshly cracked BLACK PEPPER 1 tsp. raw SUGAR 2 tsp. EVOO (extra virgin olive oil), organic preferred 4 large SCALLOPS, halved horizontally then sautéed quickly in butter on both sides, then chopped into ½” dice 8 large SHRIMP, peeled, deveined and quick sautéed in butter, then chopped into ½” dice ¼ cup packed CILANTRO leaves, chopped coarsely and stirred into the ceviche just before serving GARNISH: 4 tsp.SOUR CREAM, 1 tsp. per serving 4 whole cooked SHRIMP, cook in butter just until pink and opaque 4 lime slices, cut halfway into each slice and straddle on the side of each martini glass as a sidecar garnish Dollop sour cream into middle of each serving, then lay each shrimp on the sour cream so the tails stand upright, serve with long handled spoons.
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